HAUTE TRENDS FROM THE LAKME FASHION WEEK FALL-WINTER ’16 THAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT
ART MEETS FASHION Kangna Ranaut walked the ramp in a specially crafted Tarun Tahiliani ensemble setting the ramp on fire at the grand opening of this chapter of the Lakmé Fashion Week (LFW). Taking inspiration from Mrinalini Mukherjee’s sculptures of deities of fertility, Tarun’s Autumn-Winter Collection ’16 combined jerseys and textures in chanderi, fringing and crochet using thick chenille yarns coupled with graphic textures and shading to create a 3-D feel to flat digital printing. Textured handloom fabrics were combined with contemporary silhouettes with cascades and cowl drapes on gilets, capes, concept sarees and dresses to reflect the sculptor’s ideology in a tactile and fashionable form. The atelier played with a colour palette in earthy tones which included re-imagined renditions of ravishing red, cobalt blue, charcoal, olive and rust that celebrated the onset of fall with colours from her palette. FESTIVE GLAMOUR Manish Malhotra’s glittering new occasionwear collection premiered as a virtual reality experience, also the first in association with Etihad Airways. The collection showcased his signature resham threadwork, clustered sequins and intricate hand embroidery on dramatic trails and off-shoulder capes, alongside floral motifs. Replete with avant-garde twists–there were jacket-saris; lehengas paired with sheer crop blouses and draped dupattas on contemporary anarkalis. Elaborately detailed long tunics worn over cigarette pants and majestic, flowing backless gowns effortlessly brought the classic and contemporary together. Concluding the show was the stunning Shraddha Kapoor in a resplendent deep green velvet lehenga paired with an embroidered crop blouse, accompanied by the dapper Sushant Singh Rajput in a black bandhgala and white Jodhpur pants. INCLUSIVE DESIGNS 6Degree Stage One at LFW was the venue for one of the most innovative opening shows of the season. ‘Trapezoid’ by Schulen Fernandes for Wendell Rodricks, gave a quick lesson in amazing geometric cutting. The Trapezoid shape from ancient Incas and Egyptian times was used for archways, doors and windows. Wide at the base with a narrow top and two lateral incline sides that move up to the summit, it was used extensively also by Indians for geometry, astronomy, mathematics and algebra. The show was a landmark one in the sense that it beautifully transcended the age and size barrier on the ramp. The attires were distinct and thought-provoking–from colour-blocked long kurtas and shirts teamed with flared trousers to free-flowing kaftan style jackets thrown over floor length dresses and skirts. VINTAGE SPORTSWEAR Showcasing a delicate, feminine, sporty, streetwear line at LFW, ‘The Label’ by Ritu Kumar merged Parisian and Indian textiles to create an innovative fashion footprint. Boxy silhouettes, panel detailing, prints and stripes along with surface embroidery and multi colours played a major role in the collection. Bollywood star, Kriti Sanon, played the perfect showstopper in a black silk backless maxi with patterns and motifs of Kashmiri weaves and discreet shimmer. DUAL DESIGNS Shantanu and Nikhil showcased stunning dual fashion presentations at LFW. Drama, sensational colours and mind-blowing embellishments were the mainstay of the collection that was romantically titled ‘The Matador’s Mistress’. Here was fashion decadence at its ultimate best with a fantastic mix of couture ball gowns, wafting down the runway, which the models teamed up with Matador jackets. Delicate ruffles, lace and abundant sheer additions came alive in the signature drapes that Shantanu and Nikhil are known for. Malaika Arora Khan glided down the ramp in a cut-out at the waist, long-sleeved black mermaid style gown with gold bead work, that was totally mesmerising. If the women’s wear show was full of feminine, glamorous, seductive, elegance; the menswear offering by Shantanu and Nikhil was a high octane one, totally masculine, regimental offering inspired by history. Turbaned and bearded, dashing handsome models with a stylish demeanour strutted down the ramp in their masculine glory. For their label ‘SnN Man’ Couture line Autumn-Winter 2016/17, the designers concentrated on rich handlooms, woollens and leather in masculine hues of ecru, black, navy, and grey with a hint of maroon. Riteish Deshmukh, turbaned and bearded in a black textured jacket, flared kurta and churidars, walked the ramp for the designers. INDIAN MAGIC Mugdha Godse looked gorgeous in a piece from Gaurang Shah’s exquisite collection titled Vrindavan, inspired by the tales of Lord Krishna, Radha and the legendary Gopis. The show presented an undiluted version of traditional Indian wear. The model-actor looked her traditional best in a gorgeous ivory and gold lehenga teamed up with a green choli and an ivory-red bandhani dupatta. The designer brought together a plethora of bright and vibrant colours ranging from yellows and golds to reds, blues and greens in his range of lehengas, saris, anarkalis and a lot more, all crafted out of fine Benarasi, Patolas, Jamdanis and Bandhanis. From kurtas to sherwanis to bandhgalas, an interesting range of men’s line was also presented. RELAXED LINES Manisha Koirala surprised the paparazzi as she walked the ramp for Sohaya Misra’s label ‘Chola’. Favouring the free unstructured forms for her clothes, Sohaya added a hint of balance with structure, thus bringing in a perfect synergy between the two. Chola played it cool with an androgynous collection. Oversized shirts and overcoats were teamed with fluid cowls and baggy palazzos. The brand known for its relaxed fashion, celebrated the experimental angle of fashion. BRIDAL BEAUTY The breathtaking ‘Lakmé Salon Bridal Show’ at LFW presented by Lakmé Salon with Payal Khandwala was a stunning collaboration. Sensual and strong, the eyes maintained a velvet-like depth of kohl around the lids and the lashes remained extended. The highlight of the face, however, was a soft mouth illuminated with a dramatic stroke of gold leaf. The hair this season was contemporary and fuss-free, centre parted with a lithe ponytail at the nape of the neck. Using these as her inspirations, celebrated designer Payal Khandwala unveiled ‘The New Emperor’, a show conceptualised to present fierce, fashion, modern hair and make-up looks for the daring new-age Indian bride. ROYAL REGALIA Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s ‘Illuminate’grand finale was a befitting tribute to the trend of the season. Kareena Kapoor Khan, the face of Lakmé Absolute, sashayed down the ramp in a striking Sabya creation. The collection also included sportswear, a first from Sabya, along with lush fabrics weaved into salwar suits, kurtas and sarees all infusing a striking shimmer twist. We also saw bejewelled micro mini dresses that are perfect for the upcoming festive and cocktail season.